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there's more to Carnival than meets the eye... Let the fun begin!
[Maddalena Delli]
Originating from ancient pagan rites, the carnival tradition has acquired a whole different meaning in Christian times, when it was associated with a spell of marriment preceeding the restrictions and fasting of Lent. Carnival starts after the Epiphany on January 6th, but since Martedì Grasso (Shrove Tuesday) is the day before Ash Wednesday which is forty days before Easter, and because Easter depends on when the first full moon in spring is, as a consequence carnival varies in length and dates each year. However, as a rule off thumb the celebrations usually start four Sundays before the Martedì Grasso, and the last couple of weeks are the "hottest". Martedì Grasso this year is on February 24th.There are a number of shops where you can hire elaborate costumes, but you should be careful to reserve your outfit well in advance if you need it for one of the most popular days: Berlingaccio (the last carnival Thursday), the last carnival Sunday and Martedì Grasso. On these days many discos, bars and restaurants will hold carnival parties, but if the weather isn't too bad there will also be much partying going on in the streets.
Of course you can dress up as almost anything you fancy (from Batman to a lamp-post, from a Renaissance lady to your favorite Star Wars character), or invent your own costume, or even just put on some fancy makeup. But you may also like to know that all the main towns in Italy have their local traditional masks. Here are just a few of the names you may want to get acquainted with: Pulcinella is from Naples, Arlecchino and Colombina are a couple of lovers from Venice, Dottor Balanzone is from Bologna, Rugantino is from Rome, Gianduia is from Turin. In Tuscany, Florence has Stenterello, while Viareggio created its own mask in 1930. It's called Burlamacco and it was later joined by a female companion, Ondina.
In Florence children dress up and parade with their parents in the squares, at the Cascine park and along the Lungarno Vespucci, scattering colorful confetti and wielding cans of squirty shaving foam. A colorful multiethnic carnival parade will be held on February 22nd between piazza Ognissanti and piazza Signoria. Foreign communities and groups are invited to join in, so if you wish to contact the organizers you are most welcome write to assport@comune.fi.itto or call 055.2768030 or
The most famous and unusual carnival in Tuscany is held in Viareggio, an elegant seaside resort about 100 km west of Florence, where for over 130 years there have been spectacular parades of elaborate floats. It all started in 1873, when a group of local young aristocrats decided to celebrate their Martedì Grasso in style. They wore masks and costumes, adorned their carriages with flowers and paraded through the town. The idea immediately caught on and except during the World Wars, the Viareggio carnival has never missed a year.
Later the first allegorical floats entered the scene, built by the skilful hands of the blacksmiths and carpenters from the town's shipyards. In 1925 papier maché was employed for the first time, allowing builders to construct increasingly large creations. Today's floats are divided into two size groups. The largest take the best part of the year to complete and can accommodate up to 200 people, a dozen of whom will be manoeuvring the massive puppets from the inside. Since the late Sixties satire has become a favourite subject, and the carnival artists mercilessly lampoon politics, sports and entertainment celebs as well as the hottest topics and events. "Victims" last year included Silvio Berlusconi, George W Bush and even the Pope.
The whole thing is so way over the top that you will never believe it until you see it with your own eyes, so head for Viareggio on February 8th, 15th, 22nd, 24th or 29th and enjoy a grand carnival experience. By the way, don't forget your camera! Viareggio can be reached by train via Pisa or with a Lazzi bus from Piazza Adua. Due to the huge amount of work involved in the preparation of the floats, admission to the carnival avenue is not free.
Tickets for both standing or seating places can be bought from booths once you're there or reserved by telephone in advance. The official website is www.ilcarnevale.com
Many other Tuscan towns have carnival celebrations, most of which feature parades of elaborate floats, fancy dress parties and much eating and drinking. At Foiano della Chiana in the province of Arezzo there is another very old carnival. On the day of the last parade, the local King Carnival - called Re Giocondo (Merry King) - will read out loud his "will" to the crowds, and after this the giant puppet will be burnt in a rite that has its roots in some very old peasant traditions. A fine Venice-like carnival festival was launched in style last year in Lucca, and will be repeated again this year with three weeks of outstanding events: parties in luxurious palazzi and 18th-century villas, shows, concerts, themed dinners and all sorts of entertainment (www.carnevalelucca.it for info).
More carnival listings and dates, in the events section of our website.
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http://www.ilcarnevale.com
http://www.carnevalelucca.it